Cleaning Rods

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chuck d
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Cleaning Rods

Post by chuck d »

Looks like I have a small bend in my Dewey coated .22 rod and will need to be replaced. Does anyone use the .22 RF or the .20 rods? Does it make sense for a specific .22RF or a .22rf?
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Re: Cleaning Rods

Post by CZforlife »

I have a 20 and 17 rod that I use on my 22's. Still a 22 jag just a smaller rod
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Re: Cleaning Rods

Post by Trent »

I used to try using smaller rods across multiple calibers, but I have found that it is a pain in the ass. I do use a .17-.20 cal rod in my .17 and .20 cal rifles, but in my bigger calibers I now use appropriately sized rods. I was finding that I was getting WAY too much flex in the rod when trying to use the small rod in larger calibers. When a rod is allowed to flex or bow inside the bore it is whacking against the lands of the bore. A hard stainless rod against a soft steel bore is no good, besides putting bends in the rod it'll also damage the sharp edges of the lands.

I use one .22 cal rod across all my .22 cal rifles whether they are centerfire or rimfire.

My personal choice is for Pro-Shot stainless steel cleaning rods. My .22 cal rod is a coated rod and a lot of the coating has scraped and flaked off. I will be replacing it with another Pro-Shot stainless rod sometime soon.

Just my opinion. (*)
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Re: Cleaning Rods

Post by CZforlife »

This debate could go on forever. But if you have the appropriate type jag you can use a 17 or 20
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Re: Cleaning Rods

Post by Trent »

Debate?? Chuck asked what others are using. I didn't realize it was a debate.

Since we are debating though... the jag and patch do the cleaning, the rod does the pushing. That is two tools, not one. Having the appropriate jag is absolutely necessary. That is a given. Can you push a .22 jag/patch with a .17cal rod, yeah... you could also noodle it down a .30cal bore. That doesn't mean that it is the right tool. When you are shoving a TIGHT fitting patch down any caliber of barrel you'd be doing yourself a favor by using the largest size rod that will fit the bore. It'll make the job more enjoyable and your rods will last longer.

Again... this is just my opinion.
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Re: Cleaning Rods

Post by stsbuyer »

I have several Lilja rimfire tight bore barrels. I use a Bore Tech rimfire rod for all of my smallbore rifles. The standard 22 caliber rod is too big an OD for the Lilja barrels with the tight bore. I would suspect that the CZ rifle need the smaller rod also as the one I have was as tight as the Lilja.
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Re: Cleaning Rods

Post by atomicbrh »

+1 for what STS Buyer said and a few more hints. A normal .22 Rimfire rod will not fit through these tight Silhouette Rifle bores. The rod has to be .20 caliber or made especially for Rimfire. I have not pushed a patch on a jag with a cleaning rod through a rifle bore in years. Too much banging as the rod flexes against the bore for me. I use a simple pull through that I make myself not the Patchworm or Boresnake to pull patches through. The first pull through I use fits loose, pulls the gritty burned priming compound out and does not use the primer compound grit as an abrasive against the bore. After two or three loose, wet pullthroughs I follow with a tighter wet pull through twice and then a tight dry pull through. Two more wet loose pull throughs and I am done.

Between 700 and 900 rounds accuracy will fall off on most of my barrels. Then I use a bore guide, brass brush(and I do not mean a cheap one) and the Bore-Tech coated Rimfire cleaning rod that STS Buyer uses. I usually make two one way passes from chamber to muzzle with the brass brush soaked with Bore-Tech Rimfire Blend. The brush is detached from the rod before the rod is pulled from the bore. Then the brush is sprayed with rubbing alcohol or similar chemical until it drips, blown off with compressed air and dried on a blue paper shop towel after each pass. I do no scrubbing back and forth on a rifle barrel because my theory is to keep pushing unwanted junk out of the barrel. I then pull the dry tight pull through patches and then two loose wet ones.

Everytime something goes through my bores whether a pull through or a cleaning rod it is thoroughly cleaned immediately after it is removed from the bore.

I too have one tight bore CZ, many tight bore Liljas and Factory Anschutz barrels. I use the same cleaning methods on all with success.

Using a brass brush is not what puts wear on the brass brush but leaving ammonia based cleaning solvents on the brush in storage. If you do not get that ammonia off with something like rubbing alcohol it will eat the brush up when you are doing nothing with the brush but storing it. Using pistol brushes instead of rifle brushes will make it easier to push the brush through. On a really neglected bore I use rifle brushes because they have a larger contact area but are harder to push through. My solvents and chemicals go into Sinclair dropper bottles for the best control and to prevent waste when applying to the patches.

Do not neglect to clean extractor/ejector slots, bolt face, extractors/ ejectors and muzzle before any bore cleaning is started.

Since I have been shooting awhile folks have started bringing rifles to me when they have problems. Many times at the range. I am not a gunsmith. Leave that to Marv, Mark, Steve and Evelio.The main problem I am seeing is a lack of maintenance of the Smallbore Silhouette Rifle. Competitors are not cleaning or lubricating their rifles. When I say this I do not mean the bore. I was told in my Youth by a experienced Smallbore Prone shooter that you will shoot and dry-fire a quality Smallbore Rifle more than any other rifle you have ever owned because you like it so much. That shooter taught me how to lube and clean a Prone Rifle properly. There are 6 points on the Anschutz bolt that need a tiny dab of grease not oil. The bolt body and face need oil. After running AR's fast and hot in the past few years I have switched to Synthetic Mobil 1 Motor Oil for the bolt body. Any high temperature disc brake grease is adequate for the grease points. This oil and grease is available at any parts store or big box store and ten dollars worth will last a lifetime. DO NOT use this grease or oil in your bore for safety reasons!

I went on this long tirade because I am sick of seeing bolts in good Silhouette Rifles completely dry and gaulded like a engine that has been run in a dirty environment without a Air Filter.

This is my cleaning and maintenance procedure. There are many cleaning/lubrication methods out there. I am not disrespecting yours and do not intend to start conflict over a topic has been beat to death everywhere.

Thanks to the original poster for giving me this outlet to rant and hopefully help a few Anschutz bolts and receivers survive that otherwise would not have.

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Re: Cleaning Rods

Post by litig8or »

When purchasing my first smallbore Lilja barrel, I recall Dan telling me: "Never use a brush; never use a cleaning rod. After every 500 rounds or so, run an oiled patch through with a patch worm." I've followed that advice for over two years with no loss of accuracy.

It is said that more twenty-twos are damaged than are hepled by cleaning rods and brushes. Since following Dan's advice, I gotta believe it!
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Re: Cleaning Rods

Post by shakes »

Just wondering if cleaning is so important how come many olympic and word class shooters( I said many not all) never run a patch or a rod through the barrel for a whole season with no loss in accuracy at all? Yes they do clean the bolt and breach but never the barrel.

I have never run a rod or patch through my barrels (Lilja and Shilen)and have never had any accuracy problems at all. Just wondering. :-B
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Re: Cleaning Rods

Post by CZforlife »

i-) you know this place is slow when where arguing about cleaning rod sizes! =))
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Re: Cleaning Rods

Post by chuck d »

Everyone-
Keep posting!
I am finding the info interesting and helpful. I will come to my own conclusion as to how I will clean. I thought my CZ had a tight bore, and the info will help how I handle it.
.22RF is much different from my XTC AR's, that is for sure.

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Re: Cleaning Rods

Post by CZforlife »

Ok, personally I find this conversation a little slow, but I have a buddy puts a factory jag on a lathe for me and spins them down a little. Still slinds with resistance but it isnt being forced though. This comboed with my 17cal rod. Is one nice smooth working device. Also, a bore guide is important in my opinion aswell. :-$
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Re: Cleaning Rods

Post by lone ringer »

shakes wrote:Just wondering if cleaning is so important how come many olympic and word class shooters( I said many not all) never run a patch or a rod through the barrel for a whole season with no loss in accuracy at all? Yes they do clean the bolt and breach but never the barrel.

I have never run a rod or patch through my barrels (Lilja and Shilen)and have never had any accuracy problems at all. Just wondering. :-B
Shakes, I guess it would depend on how much pure accuracy the sport requires and what kind of ammo you use. I have read that Matt Emmons who is one of the best if not the best in the world in English Match and three position, after he picks the best lot of ammo spins it on a gismo to pick the best of the lot for competition. I also have talked to some BR shooters that tell me they clean their chambers after every 50 shots.

In rifle silhouette shooting the shooter is more important than the equipment or ammo we all know that so if you have premium barrels and use good ammo you are going to have less problems than somebody that has factory barrels and uses cheap ammo. I am right now removing lead from a Marlin 39A from having shot a bunch of Federal Auto Match ammo through it for inexpensive practice. Some of the cheap ammo will lead your barrels and if you do not believe me just try shooting Federal Auto Match or Aguila Standard Velocity in your good barrels.
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Trent
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Re: Cleaning Rods

Post by Trent »

I have considered switching to the "pull through" cleaning systems. I have and use boresnakes, but that isn't what I am talking about. More like the Patchworm or the Dewey cable field kit type setup. With a muzzle guide to prevent rubbing from pulling against the side of the crown there seems like almost no risk of damage to the bore. No flexing of a cleaning rod dinging against the bore/lands, no need for multiple bore guides for all your actions, one cable for a wide set of calibers.
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Re: Cleaning Rods

Post by Innocent »

Dumb blonde question. SInce when did using a soft metal such as aluminmum, brass or teflon coated rod cause damage to hardened steel?
Now for the debate over rod size...seen and cleaned many rifles in my position/prone shooting days, some belonging to DCM (now the CMP) and personal collection. Have cleaned professionally (while working in a gun store) with both rods and pull through systems. Even clean my current silhouette rifles as needed (environmental condidtions such as wind or rain) and for use or twice a year if not needed..that is what you do on the 4th of July and Christmas eve, right?
My personal preference now is for pull through, unless I have a reason to try to scrub for a specfic reason.
Yes I have dealt with many tight bores and oversized patches, no real preference for rod size other than to have one that will pass a patch through without excessive pressure.

So the debate contiues.....
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