Heresy!
- jneihouse
- Distinguished Master Poster

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- Location: Fort Smith Arkansas
- jneihouse
- Distinguished Master Poster

- Posts: 2144
- Joined: Fri Nov 18, 2005 11:31 am
- Location: Fort Smith Arkansas
I mean, some of his ideas have merit.....I'll admit that the "button" is great for chamber and leade cleaning...(Blaubear, I'll let you describe the "Button" process).....And I'll admit that I've given him a key to my gun shop (reloading and tinkering and winter air rifle house)....I embrace him as a friend......But not a rod in an Anschutz........Say it isn't so, Blaubear, say it isn't so............
Kitty
Kitty
Commander in Chief, F Troop
- BlauBear
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Maybe we really had it right - clean everything with Butch's or Kroil, a brush and a steel rod... Hey Kitty, didn't you leave that red rifle in the Shop somewhere?
"If the America people ever allow private banks to control the issuance of their currencies, first by inflation and then by deflation, the banks and corporations that will grow up around them will deprive the people of all their prosperity" - TJ
- BlauBear
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As for your comment about the "Button", when you buy the Patchworm cleaning kit, several different sized "cleaning heads" come in the kit with a pull through line. In use, thread on a proper sized cleaning head and then a patch before pulling the whole assembly through the barrel from the chamber end. The patch gets caught between the head and the inside of the bore, and forced into a really tight fit that cleans much better than just the patch.
If your bore is well seasoned and hasn't met Mr. Brush, expect a really hard time pulling a patch through. Sop a patch in Hoppe's best #9 perfume (or other favorite, serious bore cleaner) and pull it through without a cleaning head first and let it soak a few minutes, then pull through a couple of loose ones before trying to pull through a wet patch (your favorite oil) with the cleaning head. Your mileage may vary, but the lead fouling coming out of my barrel set off something akin to a panic attack. I tried this on a second rifle with the same results, and a shooting buddy at the range just about got a cleaning head and patch stuck in his barrel so it's pretty consistent between rifles and cleaning methods.
The result is restored accuracy and easier chambering, so previous cleaning methods weren't working. My working theory is that besides the tighter fit from the cleaning heading I need a more aggressive cleaning solvent. This is about when the rod and brush came out because I concluded the pull through patches were not going to do the job.
Now I'm trying to figure out what will prevent this problem in the future, and it is a problem because of the hard chambering and erratic performance, particularly in a tight bore barrel. Patchworm has felt buttons that fit ahead of the pads for better cleaning, and there are several solvents to try, so the experiment continues.
If your bore is well seasoned and hasn't met Mr. Brush, expect a really hard time pulling a patch through. Sop a patch in Hoppe's best #9 perfume (or other favorite, serious bore cleaner) and pull it through without a cleaning head first and let it soak a few minutes, then pull through a couple of loose ones before trying to pull through a wet patch (your favorite oil) with the cleaning head. Your mileage may vary, but the lead fouling coming out of my barrel set off something akin to a panic attack. I tried this on a second rifle with the same results, and a shooting buddy at the range just about got a cleaning head and patch stuck in his barrel so it's pretty consistent between rifles and cleaning methods.
The result is restored accuracy and easier chambering, so previous cleaning methods weren't working. My working theory is that besides the tighter fit from the cleaning heading I need a more aggressive cleaning solvent. This is about when the rod and brush came out because I concluded the pull through patches were not going to do the job.
Now I'm trying to figure out what will prevent this problem in the future, and it is a problem because of the hard chambering and erratic performance, particularly in a tight bore barrel. Patchworm has felt buttons that fit ahead of the pads for better cleaning, and there are several solvents to try, so the experiment continues.
"If the America people ever allow private banks to control the issuance of their currencies, first by inflation and then by deflation, the banks and corporations that will grow up around them will deprive the people of all their prosperity" - TJ
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Travelor
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I had a Suhl built up as a BR RF rifle by Butch Hongisto and he recommended cleaning between each target (they shoot 50 rounds for record) using a brush and patches. He said that the soft lead can cause some slight amount of lead to get in the barrels spoiling the grouping.
Well as we all know cleaning is considered herasy! But just as a novel experiement I tried it with the Suhl using the recommened solvent - BoreTech Rimfire Blend followed by Butch's Gun Oil (not the same Butch). Well the gun shot much better (one hole 5 shot groups at 50 yards with no wind flags). The Rimfire Blend does not have the same solvents as those made for centerfire barrels that have to cope with copper fouling. The gun oil seemed to help with those initial shots right after cleaning - as in no shots needed to get the gun to group. INTERSTING
Tried the same proceded on my Centerfire guns but using Butch's Bore Shine followed by Butch's Gun Oil. Now all of my CF guns shoot better and the first shot from a cold clean bore are in the group.
Needless to say, I have tried this on my Anschutz 1712's and the results have been the same - better groups and no time needed to get them to start grouping.
Happy camper,
George
Well as we all know cleaning is considered herasy! But just as a novel experiement I tried it with the Suhl using the recommened solvent - BoreTech Rimfire Blend followed by Butch's Gun Oil (not the same Butch). Well the gun shot much better (one hole 5 shot groups at 50 yards with no wind flags). The Rimfire Blend does not have the same solvents as those made for centerfire barrels that have to cope with copper fouling. The gun oil seemed to help with those initial shots right after cleaning - as in no shots needed to get the gun to group. INTERSTING
Tried the same proceded on my Centerfire guns but using Butch's Bore Shine followed by Butch's Gun Oil. Now all of my CF guns shoot better and the first shot from a cold clean bore are in the group.
Needless to say, I have tried this on my Anschutz 1712's and the results have been the same - better groups and no time needed to get them to start grouping.
Happy camper,
George
George
No one cares how much you know until they know how much you care.
No one cares how much you know until they know how much you care.
- BlauBear
- Uber Master Poster

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As in brush & rod?Travelor wrote:I had a Suhl built up as a BR RF rifle by Butch Hongisto and he recommended cleaning between each target (they shoot 50 rounds for record) using a brush and patches. He said that the soft lead can cause some slight amount of lead to get in the barrels spoiling the grouping.
Happy camper,
George
"If the America people ever allow private banks to control the issuance of their currencies, first by inflation and then by deflation, the banks and corporations that will grow up around them will deprive the people of all their prosperity" - TJ
- Bob259
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Those BR guys love their rodsBlauBear wrote:As in brush & rod?Travelor wrote:I had a Suhl built up as a BR RF rifle by Butch Hongisto and he recommended cleaning between each target (they shoot 50 rounds for record) using a brush and patches. He said that the soft lead can cause some slight amount of lead to get in the barrels spoiling the grouping.
Happy camper,
George
- BlauBear
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Pete
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Heresy!
Recall shooting a lot of American Prone in the 70's and early 80's. We cleaned after every 40 shot match using a bore guide, stainless steel rod, brass brush and #9, waste one shot then went to the sighter bull. Nothing shoots as good as a clean barrel! 
- BlauBear
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Ok, think I got it and Innocent supplied a critical piece.
Saturate a patch with Bore Tech Rimfire Blend, pull it through on a loose patch and let it soak for five minutes or so. Turn the patch over and pull it through again. Next pull a dry patch through, and expect lead plaques and threads. Repeat until the patch comes through clean.
Now set up for tight patches and repeat the process until those come through clean and the the barrel should be squeaky clean. Since the metal is now stripped bare, I top this with a loose CorrosionX patch followed by a dry patch to prevent rust.
If your rifle is like mine, it take at least twenty shots to settle down after this treatment, so (as Innocent said) this is an occasional thing, not every outing. I'll reserve it for deteriorated accuracy or twice a year, and clean the "old way" otherwise.
Saturate a patch with Bore Tech Rimfire Blend, pull it through on a loose patch and let it soak for five minutes or so. Turn the patch over and pull it through again. Next pull a dry patch through, and expect lead plaques and threads. Repeat until the patch comes through clean.
Now set up for tight patches and repeat the process until those come through clean and the the barrel should be squeaky clean. Since the metal is now stripped bare, I top this with a loose CorrosionX patch followed by a dry patch to prevent rust.
If your rifle is like mine, it take at least twenty shots to settle down after this treatment, so (as Innocent said) this is an occasional thing, not every outing. I'll reserve it for deteriorated accuracy or twice a year, and clean the "old way" otherwise.
"If the America people ever allow private banks to control the issuance of their currencies, first by inflation and then by deflation, the banks and corporations that will grow up around them will deprive the people of all their prosperity" - TJ