How do you clean your .22 Rifle?

Jetmugg · Post by **Jetmugg** » Sat Mar 17, 2007 8:07 pm

I realize that there are many schools of thought regarding the cleaning of 22lr rifles, ranging from "never ever clean them" to the pull-through methods, to the full-on rods, guides, brushes and patches crowd.

I have always been a "leave the bore dirty" guy, just cleaning the action and trigger groups on semi-autos, while my CZ 452 has gotten the occasional patches down the bore on a rod. Now with the recent acquisistion of a 1712 Anschutz, I am leaning more towards the pull-through patchworm or homemade weedeater line method.

I'm always interested in hearing (reading) what others have to contribute on this topic.

What is your preferred method of cleaning?

SteveM.

FinnishPower · Post by **FinnishPower** » Sat Mar 17, 2007 8:43 pm

My cleaning method for my sako P94S is after each shooting session I put two clean patches through the bore followed by two patches soaked in gun oil. I then clean in and around the reciever with a brush and also clean the magazine with a brush. Once i have done that i then wipe down the whole gun with a clean rag. I then oil all exterior metal parts. I also put a patch soaked in tetra gun solvent though the bore every 500 rounds and then spray gunk-out through the bore. I find that after cleaning with solvent it takes around 15 to 25 rounds for it to start shooting good. The gun shoots extremely well after being clean with solvent.

Jason · Post by **Jason** » Sat Mar 17, 2007 8:54 pm

I don't ever do the "pull through" method because that puts a dirty line rubbing across the crown of my rifle. I clean the breech face and bolt face after every match and push a clean patch through the bore using a bore guide made for the action type when accuracy starts to decline. Between ammo types during ammo testing or for a thorough clean, I use solvent patches (any of a few rimfire blends or Hoppes #9) and use clean patches to get it clean and dry, then run one oil patch through and clean patches until it's clean and dry again. Ammonia and other copper solvents never see the inside of my rimfire bores (exception being one of the 22 mags) as they never see copper plate or copper washed bullets.

Jetmugg · Post by **Jetmugg** » Sat Mar 17, 2007 8:59 pm

Thanks for the input. Jason, good point about not using the pull-through due to having a dirty line rubbing against the crown.

When you guys use a rod and patch, do you do anything to protect the muzzle from the rod and/or patch jag.

Steve

jnyork · Post by **jnyork** » Sat Mar 17, 2007 9:26 pm

Jettmug, go over to Rimfirecentral and post your question, you'll get all the info you could possibly want from some real experts.

Jetmugg · Post by **Jetmugg** » Sat Mar 17, 2007 9:43 pm

If I posted something as wide open as "how do you clean your .22" on RFC, I might get 500 responses, with many of them being from guys who are strictly into 10/22's. I'm more interested in the responses of the respected Silhouette shooters on this board.

Likewise, the Benchrest.com crowd has definite ideas about cleaning rifles as well, but I think that some of them might spend as much time cleaning as they do shooting.

The Silhouette crowd is the one I'm most interested in hearing from.

SteveM.

Jason · Post by **Jason** » Sat Mar 17, 2007 10:34 pm

I don't use anything to protect the crown from the patch and jag because I have my rod marked and I know exactly when the patch is going to exit. Nothing other than the patch touches the crown with any pressure, as I push it just far enough for me to pull the patch off and push the jab back into the bore gently. With rimfire, I don't believe that I'll ever wear out the barrel by shooting it, so I'm careful that I don't damage it any other way.

dryfire · Post by **dryfire** » Sat Mar 17, 2007 11:22 pm

Hi Jetmugg
Jason has made some good points about cleaning. As I posted on a similar
thread on RimfireCentral I have cleaned the same Walther KKMS with
a fitted bore guide and coated 1pce rod for 20+ years with no adverse
affects. I take care not to exit the muzzle with the jag except enough
for the patch to fall off at the muzzle, so the patches have to be speared through. I use Shooter's Choice solvent 1-1.125" patches and currently
Bore-Tech rods. Powder solvent and lead remover is all that's needed
if you are using lubed lead ammo and not copper washed ammo.
I rarely brush the bore as I find that frequent use of SC keeps leading
minimal.
I'm using the same prcedure on my new 1712 and look forward to years
of shooting pleasure from it also.
Cheers
Andrew Patchett

BlauBear · Post by **BlauBear** » Sun Mar 18, 2007 5:10 am

I'm with the "Pull Through" crowd on this one, with a couple of differences.

Cover the scope! Oil on the lens is a real bugger to clean off, particularly the moder oils that absolutely do no want to let go.

Start with a Patch Worm, Break Free CLP and over sized patches. Pull through a wet patch, turn it over, pull through again, and then do the same thing with a dry patch. Repeat this process until both patches come through clean. Pull the bolt and give it a thorough wipe down with particular attention to the bolt face. Swab out the receiver with a dry dauber - the receiver will pick up plenty of oil from the bolt. Put a drop of Tetra Gun (it's thicker than Breakfree and makes the bolt smoother) and work it in with your index finger. Wipe you finger on your trousers.

Put it back together, wipe down with an Outers tri-clean cloth, and pack it away.

mordecai · Post by **mordecai** » Mon Mar 19, 2007 8:15 am

shakes · Post by **shakes** » Mon Mar 19, 2007 11:14 am

mordecai wrote:++

THAT'S THE BEST WAY TO CLEAN YET. THANKS FOR THE LAUGH, IT REALLY MADE MY DAY.

How do you clean your .22 Rifle?

How do you clean your .22 Rifle?

Good stuff guys.

Info overload at RFC.