I'm not an expert and perhaps the information I've seen is wrong, but it seems parallax isn't a big deal. If you use a typical rimfire scope (parallax fixed at 50 yards) on the Rams, your parallax error will amount to about 1/2." If that's the case, then why bother with an adjustable objective? Even the best 22 rifles can barely manage 1 MOA at 100 yards. I don't know how much error is involved when shooting a typical centerfire scope at the Chickens, but it might not be significant either. I understand there's an advantage with knowing exactly your aim point, but isn't parallax overblown?

Tancred

Becaue most mear mortals need that extra 1/2" in the bank. It'll make or break a shot. If you are able to hold offhand as steady as on a rest then 1/2" wouldn't matter at 100 yards.... ;)

I don't know about your scope but on mine, I have to turn the front ring for the animals to NOT look fuzzy. Shooting at a ball of 'steel wool' doesn't cut it.

well,i too need the 1/2" and need my target as clear as possible but the Anschutz and Weatherby XXII I have shot in competition with the right ammo will shoot better than 1" at a hundred . They have too to be consistant.

So is that 1/2" Up or Down, Left or Right for each shot and is it consistently that way? Then take into account a ram is only about 2.5" top to bottom of the body. So if you are .5" high one shot and .5" low on another shot that means your true amount of deviation is a full inch. You can put a 1" circle on a ram dead center and see how much wiggle room that leaves you for your hold without going over the back or to low. My CZ 452 could shoot under a inch if I did my part and my 1712 can do it with ease at 100m no less. Slight mis-alignments at the barrel and the scope in relation to the target can translate to big differences 100m down range. Plus I want those animals as crisp and bright as possible so I can try to drill a particular spot on the animal or break a shot on a spot that is called with the conditions present. I've found just aiming at the animal will get you some hits but being able to pic out a spot within the target greatly improves your hold and scores. When I first started silhouette 4 years ago I always hated shooting at animals with shot marks already on them. I felt it was to distracting to my eye as I looked for the dot in my scope. Seemed like it was better to just see all white and then just your dot. All the Master and AAA shooters didn't seem to care and liked having some defined spots to hold on. Now that my hold has improved and I use more magnification I can understand what they were talking about. Which also translates to spotting where you start to define your calls based on distinguishing marks on the animal like a splotch of paint or a lightly painted over hit that you and the shooter can see easily.

IMO a fixed parallax .22 scope is designed for paper punching and plink at roughly 50 yards or popping squirrels etc. Sure it can be used further out but it was purpose built for plinking and hunting I'd guess.


Dee

That could be in any direction depending on where you place your eye in relation to the eye piece. If you are centered in the eye piece parallax will not be present.

Thanks for the replies. Helped clear things up for me.

Tancred

I have a 6-24x Nikon Monarch that has minimum focus (parallax) at 50yds but is then adjustable to infinity. I use a low (~x8 - 10) power for the chickens and the view is bright and sharp - but I'm a beginner and probably a poor shot as well. Can anyone tell me what the parallax error is at 40m and if a Sightron that can focus to 10m is a better scope for this distance if I want to advance my scores?
Thanks

Put the rifle on a bench rest and move your head around, you can see the amount of parallax error. Can also see if your eye is in the same spot every time there is no parallax. Don't get lulled into false security with adjusted out parallax though. Inconsistent cheek pressure will throw shots out of group. Small bore prone sling coat and glove with Iron sights you can push one out by leaning your head too hard on the stock. Offhand Silhouette rifle no different everything has to be consistent.

Boats

Weatherby1976 wrote:I have a 6-24x Nikon Monarch that has minimum focus (parallax) at 50yds but is then adjustable to infinity. I use a low (~x8 - 10) power for the chickens and the view is bright and sharp - but I'm a beginner and probably a poor shot as well. Can anyone tell me what the parallax error is at 40m and if a Sightron that can focus to 10m is a better scope for this distance if I want to advance my scores?
Thanks

The numbers on the AO are refrence at best... You have to mark the distances on you AO for the 4 animals with no parallax.

If you wear glasses your AO numbers and someone elses looking through the same scope will be different.

Just more food for thought....

cedestech wrote: The numbers on the AO are reference at best... You have to mark the distances on you AO for the 4 animals with no parallax.

That's a good observation. I have two Bushnell scopes (Elite 4200 4-16x40 and an older 6-20x40 Scopechief) and on both, the AO calibration is very accurate. Just bought a used Leupold Vari-X III 6.5-20x40 EFR and the AO markings are generally correct, but nowhere near as spot-on as the Bushnells. The Bushnell Scopechief has the smallbore silhouette distances highlighted in a different color than the other gradations, which is pretty cool. That one is going to get a TK Lee dot, I think.

Pete

That's a good observation. I have two Bushnell scopes (Elite 4200 4-16x40 and an older 6-20x40 Scopechief) and on both, the AO calibration is very accurate. Just bought a used Leupold Vari-X III 6.5-20x40 EFR and the AO markings are generally correct, but nowhere near as spot-on as the Bushnells. The Bushnell Scopechief has the smallbore silhouette distances highlighted in a different color than the other gradations, which is pretty cool. That one is going to get a TK Lee dot, I think.

Based on my experience with Bushnell, I don't believe they will honor any warranty service or repair on your scope if you have TK Lee or anyone other than Bushnell perform any service on the scope.

Sightron AO markings are also very accurate - after using Leupold's for years it was a shock when a Sightron came in accurately marked.

Couple of issues with most new scopes and parallax. As has been said the barrels are generally marked for distances and don't always correspond to parallax free adjustment at the marked distance. On Leupold's it's only a half turn or so to switch from shortest rim fire distance to longest. And since the scopes are alloy they seem to change parallax on hot or cold days. Most important everybody's eye reads different. Parallax free at 60 meters for one may not be parallax free same distance same scope for another

Older steel tube scopes like US made Weaver T's Unertl's or Lyman Super Target Spots are micrometer marked and have fine threads on the Objective lens adjustment. It's several turns to go from 100 meters to 40 meters on the old ones. And Steel tubes don't seem to change at all with temperature changes. May be a function of length as much as barrel material. Record the micrometer settings for distances after benching the rifle and wiggling your eye for no reticule movement on target it's going to be just right when going back to that distance. Focus is not the same as parallax free. Once you have the parallax set focus is taken on the Ocular lens and the same for all distances.

This all from observation and using scopes, somebody who knows optics may correct me. In practice the Leupold's work fine just not as precise as the older scopes. If you were shooting bench rest would probably make a difference. Silhouette mark the barrel for your eye and forget it.

Boats