Mounted my new leupold 6.5-20 EFR scope and went to the range for the first time today. The scope dials were on 0 just as they came from the factory.

I took the bolt out of the gun and bore sighted looking thru the barrel then looked at the scope. The bullseye seemed in the center of the barrel but the scope cross hairs were about 6" to the right and 3"-4" low. After a bit of trial and error I ended up with windage dial reading 5.75 and the elevation dial reading 11.5 with the bullet hitting the bullseye. The sight in distance was 25 yards due to just trying to get it on paper first.The range where I was at had 25,50 and 100 yard positions.

I've read where the Leupold has 50 MOA elevation and 50 MOA windage adjustment. So I assume 25 each way which I believe would be 100 clicks each way?

1) Is the above settings in the scopes optical center enough?
2) I have non adjustable bases that attach to the dovetail on the Anschutz 54 MS. Can they be torqued a bit more or less to put the cross hair where you want it prior to adjusting the scope internally?

Today was my first attempt at bore sighting and the first time I have ever considered optical center. Your guidance is appreciated!

My 2 cents - that's plenty good enough.

Others may disagree, but especially with respect to windage, only very small adjustments are ever needed. Elevation is a little different, you will most likely need almost 10MOA total adjustment between 40M and 100M, depending on the ammo.

SteveM.

Dan, you are doing fine, the difference between 25yds and 40 meters in settings is not significant. Yes, you will want up to about 10MOA for elevation on 40 to 100m, the windage rarely ever sees more than 3 to 4 MOA. Go with what you have set, and see how it works for you.
Mary

For some strange reason scopes and rings are not made for any long range shooting. More often than not I find that a couple of beer cans are required under the back part of the scope and I have been putting them there before I take my first shot with any scope. First one is about 1/2 inch long (on the bottom) and the second one (the one on top) about 1 1/4 inch long. They both need to be centered so you don't mess with the windage.

Cant go wrong with a little shim job, but youll be fine as far as having enough clicks.

The AL can shims work or you can go to the Burris Signature rings and with a bit of trial and error dial in with the plastic ecentric bushings. It really is disturbing to spend that much $$$ on a high end rifle and then have to modify bases for windage. Good luck

It is important to keep the scope in the center of its range for the greater part of its travel..by use of a shim if needed. it is also important to make sure the windage of the scope is as close to the center of the range as possible..The erector assembly of the scope if forced to the extreme on windage will cause a loss of elevaton travel at best and at worst will move the shot impact to one side or the other depending to which side its maxed out to because it will now follow the inside conture of the scope tube instead of traveling straight up or down...there is also a loss of image quality when the erector is moved from the center of the optical light path most notable on hi-magnification scopes. Also on some scope when the adjustments are maxed scope zero will shift since the spring tension on the erector is also lessened.

I would be inclined to shim the scope something around 0.010" just on general principle and see how it works out (be prepared to shim more). You need to stay out of the last revolution of elevation. On many scopes not much happens in that last turn.

The real devil with scopes can be if you get too far off center windage wise. I have seen some scopes that would make a vertical "S" curve as elevation was added because they were too far off center. This can be the hardest part of shimming the scope. If you have access to a collimator, take a look at what it is doing as you go up and down.

Rick