Jason, Long ago in a Marketplace ad response you put up a picture of a dipped factory hunting rifle. In the text you said that after shooting your 1712 Pharr stocked Silhouette rifle you rebuilt two factory stocks. I would like to see pictures of what you have done and a description of how you did it. I have several Mcmillan 1712 stocks sitting around. When comparing the RT/S and the Mcmillan 1712, I see how material could be added to the bottom of the pistol grip, the palm swell and the comb to achieve the RT/S split finger feel on the cheek and with the back hand. The depth of the forearm on the two stocks are really about the same where my front hand is positioned. I did not PM you because others here are probably interested also.

Thanks,
Bobby R. Huddleston

Assuming you're talking to me and not one of the other Jasons on here, I can say that I haven't rebuilt factory Anschutz stocks. I rebuilt factory CZ varmint stocks. The process is the same, though. The only difference will be in material you add and what you attach it with with the synthetic stock versus wood.

The first was the factory stock for me to shoot silhouette with. I slimmed the forestock and lengthened the buttstock first. Then I cut flat areas on the front of the pistol grip and cheekpiece to attach extra pieces of wood to contour. I made the pistol grip much more vertical with a palm swell to fit my hand and position my trigger finger correctly. I contoured the cheekpiece to imitate the Anschutz factory wood stock with rollover and set it to be just barely below the bore line. Then I smoothed it all up, added Bondo where necessary in the process, and then made the mistake of painting it glossy metallic blue and clearcoating it. That was more trouble and added more weight than it was worth, not to mention being too slick on hot, sweaty days. The outdoor "texture" paint is now what's on that stock and the M12 prone stock that I reshaped and it works much better, as well as being easy to touch up after the inevitable dings that match rifles get.

The second stock was a factory stock that I cut down for kid-size position shooting. For that one, I just removed a couple inches off the forestock and almost as much off the buttstock, then countoured the buttpad to match the now smaller buttstock. Then I added a rail to the stock and drilled and tapped the receiver and barrel for match sights. Not sure this build is relevant to your question, though.

Thanks Jason. That is what I needed to know. I saw the Pharr RT prototype several times during its development years ago and the same method was used with that prototype/looked like bondo and filler on maybe a (?) Nesika Bay.

Bobby

What a friend of mine did to a few of my stocks may be relevant to your questions. I had several stocks that did not fit me quite well and a good friend of mine that has spent a lot of time and has taken a lot of gunsmith classes (he is retired and lives in Susanville, CA) helped me modify the stocks so that they would fit me better.
He used glass micro balloons and fiber glass (the kind Brownell sells to glass bed rifles) resin mixed to build up the areas like comb, pistol grip, forend, etc. and I reshaped them to my liking without adding hardly any weight to the stock.
I also tried to do the same thing to a fiber glass stock that looked like a classic hunter with straight comb (no Monte Carlo) and very shallow pistol grip using LIGHT BONDO but stopped the project short because the stock was gaining too much weight even before I had it the way I wanted so my advice is that if you are modifying fiber glass stocks and all you want to is add more material to the stock to make it feel beefier use the glass micro balloons and do not make any cuts that may affect the integrity or structure of the stock unless you are ready to make repairs using fiber glass cloth and resin.

The mixture of the glass micro balloons and resin is quite runny and you can't just slap it on without getting all over the place. Tape all the areas where you do not want the mixture to attach to and get creative with how you are going to contain it (my friend used cardboard and tape, like if he was making a mold) stiff plastic may work better in my opinion because it will not stick to the mixture like the cardboard did, put more material than you need and after it dries with rasps, files and sandpaper slowly shape it to your liking.
Wish I could provide pictures or better instructions but you may be able to find them in the Internet if you need them. Hope this helps

Thanks Lone Ringer. You saved my worthless hide again. I think this makes 4+ times over the past few years Lone Ringer has kept me from making costly mistakes, wasting countless hours and ruining equipment. I am thinking Kydex of Cor-plast scraps for the temporary molds. Even if the resin adheres to the Kydex, Kydex is easy to grind off. I am wondering if a release agent like heavy wax on the Kydex will work just like bedding a rifle allowing the temporary mold to be removed from the stock easily.

Bobby R. Huddleston

You are most welcome Bobby, just remember if you are working on two or more areas of the stock (comb, pistol grip, forend, etc) do one area at a time until it the micro balloons and resin mixture hardens before pouring the next one. The surface of the mixture will be quite pours and you will have to fill, seal and prime your work before painting.

I am not familiar with the materials you mentioned you want to use to create the temporary "molds" but they need to be stiff and flexible enough for you to be able to bend. Also use a good dust mask when working with the glass micro balloons. Take your time shaping so you only have to do it once because is not quite like working with Bondo.