hi i have got another question for you very knowledgeable people, but first thanks for your great responses in my other threads, now to the question

what is the easiest way to measure trigger pull weight accuratly, just that i need to adjust my trigger pull but i don't feel like taking it to the gunsmith for such a simple job

ps i need to take a stock Sako P94S trigger from 1.1kgs to about 2 pounds

thanks in advance FinnishPower

I've used all sorts of trigger gauges, both the simple "spring and plastic" kind up to the high-end digital ones. The only one I still use cost me about two dollars to make. It consists of an empty 20oz soda bottle, a thick wire hanger, some duct tape, and just less than 2lbs of shot like I load into my shotgun shells. I straightened out the wire hanger and cut the twisted ends off of it. Then I took one end of the now straight wire and bent about three inches of it back onto itself to give the tape more surface to stick to. Then I taped that onto the size of the soda bottle with the rest of the wire sticking straight up into the air. Then I bent over about four inches of at a right angle (parallel to the ground) and bent the tip of that down toward the ground a bit and wrapped some duct tape around this part so it wouldn't scratch triggers when I use it. I have a very accurate scale that I use for weighing things that I mail., so I filled the soda bottle with lead shot until I got to 2lbs 2oz for the whole contraption including the cap for the bottle. Effectively, I made myself the same type of trigger tester that is used at matches and it's the only one I use now. I don't even know where my digital trigger gauge is anymore. If my trigger can pick up the trigger tester 10 times in a row, it's good. The trigger on the 1712 I just got is consistent enough that it will pick the tester up every time, but any little jiggle that happens during the very slow pickup will trip the trigger just as it should. If you do this, make sure you use a precision scale to make the tester. Mine measures to the nearest hundredth or an ounce or something and I made the tester right at 2lbs 2oz, to the nearest #6 shot pellet anyway.

What Jason said is the method that I use also.

Bobby R. Huddleston

You can also try a 32 oz gatorade bottle and use water, same hanger method, I just did'nt have any shot. Have the NRA approved one now and still use the old gatorade if I'm out in the garage, never noticed a differance.

the spring ones that you can buy arn't the most accurate. Any kind of a weight such as the ones described above work well and are as acurate as the scale you build it with.

Culpepper always replies discussing products I would like to have and they always cost money. Since I will be running SBRS in Jackson, MS. in 2007 where is the lowest priced supplier to buy the "official" NRA approved trigger weight and hanger? Some ranges have really nice hangers that help you find the lowest part of the trigger blade when the rifle is in the muzzle up position. I asked about the lowest price because I will be spending my own money.

Thanks,
Bobby R. Huddleston

Bobby,

Brownells has the NRA approved trigger weights, for a complete set for both pistol and rifle
678-650-000 Universal Trigger Weight System $109.30

Or to just get a setup to weight 2lbs for rifles,
678-650-003 Universal Trigger Weight Base w/Long Rod $31.79
678-650-220 "Add-On" Universal Weight $19.13
Be sure to ask if the the add-on weight weighs 14.4 oz.

This is the one use for all the trifecta matches

My scale is a my-weigh 6001, the new one is
My Weigh KD-7000 (KD7000) - Black - Postal Scales / Food Scale / Candle and Soap Making Scale KD7000BK
Weight Capacity: 15.45lb x 0.1oz
Weighing Modes: g, kg, lb:oz, lb, oz

This should help

Culpepper: Thanks, this is precisely the weight and rod system I was looking for. I am using the following scales: Detecto Model PT25PH 25 lbs. in 2 oz. increments and a Pelouze 32 oz. in 1/4 oz. increments with a huge dial and temperature compensated. I do not like the digitals. Both seem very accurate. Contrary to popular opinion, my el cheapo RCBS spring trigger guage is always right on the same measurement as these two scales.

Bobby R. Huddleston

You are more lucky than most. The RCBS scales that I have used are consistant but very seldom on 2 lbs, some are light and some are heavy. If I set my trigger with my RCBS at 2 lbs, I can't pick a 2 lb weight. If you know your guage, it can be used to set your trigger to pass but I'm not sure most people would accept it at a match. They will accept the weights.

each time you measure the trigger pull are you supposed to do with the stock on or can you accuratly measure it without the stock on, just that i tried doing it on the weekend without the stock on and i couldnt get consistant results

An old wive's tale or is it an old Silhouette tale that trigger pull magically becomes two onces lighter when the barrelled action is placed in the stock. I have been told by the best Smallbore rifle builders in America who have had many of their rifles win in National and International events including the Olympics that it is mechanically impossible for the mounting of the action into the stock to change trigger weight. The builders say that the action is just too rigid and inflexible compared to even aluminum bedding material or composite material stocks no matter how much the action bolts are over torqued. Using the correct hanging rod method as described in previous posts will prove that the trigger weight will be exactly the same in or out of the stock. Adjust the trigger out of the stock, then with the proper hanging weight device (homemade or storebought) verify the trigger weight in the stock. Do not go to the trouble of continually taking it in and out of the stock to adjust trigger weight. Of course , make sure that no part of the trigger assembly is dragging somewhere on the inside recesses of the stock when the trigger is squeezed. When the hanging weight rod is designed properly the bends in the rod will work their way around the angles of the stock preventing the rod from dragging or touching the stock somewhere and allowing a good straight pull. The advantages of the rod Culpepper(Genphideaux) suggested above are proper angle on the rod for a straight pull and a roller that finds the deepest curve of the trigger blade. The only reason I am going to buy the NRA approved weight and rod is because I will be running local matchs next year and want to make sure the Hunter Rifles are legal for our local beginners who may start traveling to some bigger matchs. Early in my Silhouette career I was harangued by my current rifle builder for quite a while after hinting that my trigger weight was different in the stock and out of the stock. He said in an unkind way basically that I was not using the proper equipment and method to check trigger weight. I found out he was right.

Hope this helps!
Bobby R. Huddleston

I hate to say these, but no matter what kind of action I tried to set the trigger pull out of the stock, it will always be lighter after you put it back in the stock, and torque the screws. I can not explain exactly why, but it seams to be worse in the 1710 or 1712 actions, rather than the 54.18, all I can atributed to is the fact that the rear screw on the 1700 series is right at the back of the action, right next to the trigger, and when you torque the rear screw, it will change very slighly the contact points in the sear enough to change the weight of pull.
When setting the pull out of the stock, I always set it about 3 ounces over, and once is torque up, it will be about 2 ounces lighter.
By the way the weight scale that you are getting is fine, but make sure you slide the neoprene roller to the side, if you use it on most of the guns with the wide trigger shoe, it will not fit the grove on the neoprene roller, and the weight will be pulling on an angle, and will make the trigger go off, even do is legal. Ask Culpepper, he can verify that.

Evelio,

I absolve all knowledge of the afore mentioned Arkansas incident, even though you are correct, I thought you were about to spit bullets and start a fight over that whole deal.

It is far more fun to sit on the porch and watch than to be an active participant......LMAO

If you decide on a gauge rather than a test weight the electronic will likely be more accurate and consistent than the spring variety.
You may run into a little problem with the P94 trigger. I found with mine, and others have reported, that just over 2 pounds is as low as it will go without professional modification and even then you don't have a really good trigger. The pull on mine was not consistent and that is not a Good Thing. I also had a problem with the rifle failing to cock when the trigger was adjusted to its lightest setting. That can result in a wasted minute or so the first time you figure it out during a match. It only happened about once out of a hundred, but still...I eventually put on a couple of extra ounces.
Consistent, smooth operation is much more important than the weight.