Are your 1712's that are in factory stocks completely free floated? Mine touches right at the tip of the stock then it is free floated all the way back. Is this normal or should you be able to easily slide a piece of paper under it?

What should the torque on the action screws be?

One last question. What order do you tighten them. Back then front? Or does it matter?

Thanks everyone.

Its really common for the forearm to touch the bbl on either the left or right side. I free floated mine.

Install some pillars and forget about torque. There are some posts that recommend an order/torque to tightening action screws. Plus there are posts on www.rimfirecentral.com that suggest torque and order.

Mine just touches right in the center only right at the tip.

I've read all the torque setting over on rimfirecentral. Lots of opinions. Some are really high. I've been taking Evelio's advice off of one of his post and just doing them hand tight.

It shoots nice, but I'm just wondering if it was fully floated would it take some of the variances out of it.

I'm just being picky.

Free advice is worth the price! Personally, I believe in free float, pillar bed, and 5 newton/meters of torque, because Anschutz tells me so and because it works for me. On the other hand, I never argue with Evelio because he knows his stuff and I refuse to work on an Anschutz myself - lesser rifles sure, but not an Anschutz - so I can't afford to hack him off too...

Since this is the rifle I shoot the most. I want to make it right. Just to make me have a little more confidence.

I just noticed this today when I was shooting off sand bags and I could see some stringing if I rested the rifle toward the end. Then I just started wondering what if and could it be better if. It's one of them things that it shoots good but could it shoot great.

Your right. I don't want to work on it myself. Even though I work on AR stye rifles everyday. I don't feel comfortable messing with wood stocks. Unless it was just removing a small amount of wood in the barrel channel. I could handle that. I had to do that to all of mine and my dad's CZ 452's.

Pillars would be nice.

jjp wrote:Are your 1712's that are in factory stocks completely free floated? Mine touches right at the tip of the stock then it is free floated all the way back. Is this normal or should you be able to easily slide a piece of paper under it?

What should the torque on the action screws be?

One last question. What order do you tighten them. Back then front? Or does it matter?

Thanks everyone.

Jason,
You've described my 1712 as well. I believe in floating. Every other silhouette, bench, or hunting rifle (all bolt guns) I own are floated and bedded. Sounds like a project for this rifle as well.

JJP
Free float the barrel, it will eliminate the striging.
Evelio.

Evelio Mc Donald wrote:JJP
Free float the barrel, it will eliminate the striging.
Evelio.

Thanks Evelio. I will sand that area and see what happens.

You don't nead pillars but it should be free floated. I don't think it matters that much how much they are torqued but they should be torqued to the same every time, both front and back.

We are sanding right now. It just needs a small amount. I will post some info when I try it out.

Thanks Everyone.

When a business card passes all the way to the action, stop.

Jerry G wrote:When a business card passes all the way to the action, stop.

Thank you. It's almost there. I shot a couple awesome groups at pig distance. That just happened to be where my bench was sitting. It has improved alot since we began. My wife is actually doing it for me. I get carried away. She has alot more patience than me. She takes a small amount off at a time. Looking good so far. I will post some pictures tonight.

What should I put on the bare wood when I'm finished?

jjp wrote:.........................What should I put on the bare wood when I'm finished?

Any wood sealer Tung Oil, stock finish, poly.... etc. You don't have to get carried away with seveal coats, one or two will be sufficient.