Hello all - new here with a question concerning glassbedding a CZ452 silhouette. In looking at the action and the way it is bolted to the stock, I'm thinking that the areas to glassbed would be the receiver and the area under the barrel from the receiver forward to the barrel lug. I'm also thinking not to bed the barrel lug at all. Does this sound like the right approach?

I've accurized a number of M1's and M1A's in the past, but this is a new one for me.

Thanks!

Some good info here. I have a silhouette but have not bedded it.

http://rimfirecentral.com/forums/showth ... ost1947925

HTH
Daisy

Thanks Daisy! Neil - who authored the post - replied on rimfire central as well. Thanks for looking out for me.

Noah

Hi, I am a new convert to the insanity that is small bore. I also have a Silhouette I have been experimenting with and I have a crazy idea that i have been turning over in my head for a while. I was thinking to try but I was wondering what you all think.
Realizing that the barrel was binding I went to Ace and got 2 plastic washers and bolted them into the stock. It worked great. Now, I am thinking to maybe glue the washers in place and bed the action up to the front lug, into the stock.
It seems to simple.
Any thoughts?
Thanks

Chicken
By using the washers, you raised the action from the stock and now the action is only supported in those two points and capable of flexing.
I would suggest to removed the wood from the barrel channel first, to free float it. Get rid of the washers and then bed the action, and about 1" of the barrel.
If you never done a bedding job, make sure you cover all holes, and any other areas that the epoxy might get into with Scotch tape, and then use plenty of release agent everywhere the epoxy might touch. I use modeling clay to fill the trigger and magazine openings in the stock, to prevent the epoxy from getting in them. Be very carefull, it is not as easy as it sounds, you may end up with a glued in action, and I hate to say this, but there is only one way to get it out, that is destroy the stock.
Good luck.

oooh I hate posting right after Evelio on this!

In the past, CZ used a pretty limp plastic stock on their Silhouette model, and the forearm in particular liked to flex. The one I had didn't take epoxy very well, but it's molded close enough around the action that it really isn't needed. What did help was to remove enough material from the bedding channel ahead of the barrel mounted recoil lug that the forearm couldn't touch. I also added bedding pillars at both action bolts, and epoxied them in. The recoil lug likes to float a little, and a layer of electrical tape added just enough gap. Carefully packing clay into the recoil lug slot in the barrel avoided a mechanical lock there, then lots of tape and Brownels' Dry Lube/Mold Release kept me out of trouble everywhere else.

See here for a tutorial on bedding the CZ 452 in particular:
http://cz452.com/PillarBeddingAmerican/index.html

And here for a good bedding tutorial:
http://www.6mmbr.com/pillarbedding.html

WHen I had my 452 Silo, here's how I bedded it:
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/sh ... p?t=171564

In my opinion, all stocks should be bedded around the action. Also, I don't care how much you love the looks of wood, it 'crawles' with changes in temp and humidity. Target stocks should be made out of a stable material that does not move with the change in weather. If a portion of the stock touches sometimes but not all the time, you will have problems.