I have a 1807 action that I am not using. How difficult is it to swap out that barrel, and put on a 54MS barrel?

All Anschutz bbls are pinned on to the action and are very easy to change. That is assuming you get a bbl from Anschutz. All you need is a headspace guage and some locktite. Did I forget to say, some mechanical ability. Locktite the bbl in place and put the pin in. Let dry overnight while you sleep and dream about shooting the rifle.

All Anschutz bbls are pinned on to the action and are very easy to change.

Easy in theory, but they are an extremely tight fit.....

Kitty

jneihouse wrote:

All Anschutz bbls are pinned on to the action and are very easy to change.

Easy in theory, but they are an extremely tight fit.....

Kitty

Amen to that! For that reason I leave Anschutz work to the professionals even though I thoroughly enjoy tinkering and consider a major part of my attraction to this sport. Anschutz components are very precise and I lack the tools and skill for anything beyond screw driver work.

TER
All Anchutz barrels are press fitted into the action, by removing the two pins on the action, I garanty you that the barrel will not slip out of that action, as a matter of fact, it takes a special jig, and a 10 TONS hydraulic press to push the barrel out ( normaly about 6 tons or 12,000 lbs. ) also a .625 mandrel to fit into the action with out bending, once you star appliying force, believe me, I only done over a 100 of them.
DO NOT ATTEMP TO DO THIS, UNLESS YOU HAVE THE PROPER EQUIPMENT, OTHERWISE YOU WILL END UP RUINING THE ACTION AND THE BARREL.
Putting the new barrel in, again is another story.
Evelio.

Like I said - leave it to the Pros...

ter, I found a site by Border barrels that tells how they change barrels. Do a Google search. Type in "border barrels anschutz barrel change". The first site listed will be "Fitting a .22 Rimfire Barrel". Click on that and you will be getting advice from the experts. Hope this helps.

chickenchoker wrote:Click on that and you will be getting advice from the experts.

Look two posts up, he already got advice from an expert

Long story short, have someone that's done it to guns that win do it.

I was hoping it was easy, so I could swap barrels if I wanted to go back.
Instead of changing it to a silhouette gun, I think I'll get a better match stock for it. It has a 1607 stock now, I would prefer a 1907, or 1913 stock for a winter league I'm in. If anybody has a good link to a stock, please let me know. Thanks.

Chickenchoker, and every body else.
I finally had enough time to look at the Border barrel change instructions.
I don't know how many of you all check it out, but here is my opinion.
The first time I ever try to remove a barrel from an Annie, I did the same thing they talked about, except my left hand grip was not strong enough to stand the hit from a 2 lbs. hammer, so after a few tries, I put it on a vise, and beat the shit out of it until it started moving, needless to say the front of the chamber, and extractor grooves were obliterated so bad that to save the barrel, a new chamber, and extractor grooves needed to be re-cut. From then on I started using a Hydraulic press with a special jig, and a mandrel, machine to fit the I.D. of the action to within .005" this works great, the barrel slides slowly out with no deterioration to the face of the chamber.
Now installing the new barrel in, according to Border and other folks, all you have to do, is put a little Loc-Tite on both surfaces, slip the barrel into the action, and tighten the front screw, which will retain both pieces together until is cured ( of course you have to make sure that the extractor grooves are line up ) and let it set over night.
Well that's how I also did my first one, but after I tested it, my windage in the scope was almost out, I don't know what happen, so after I got home, I took everything apart, except for the barrelled action, and decided to mount the action on my lathe, and indicated the front of the action to .000" TIR at that point I turn the machine on, and I was getting about a 1/2" wobble at the end of the barrel, no wonder I was out of windage, and depending on which angle the barrel ends up, it can also affect your elevation.
So here is the way I do it now. First the new barrel shank is turned to .0005" smaller than the ID of the action. The action is chuck to .000" run out, and about .001" to .002" is faced of the front to make sure that the ID , and the face of the action are perfectly square to each other. I then apply a coat of Bearing Loc- Tite to the bore of the action, and the barrel shank, at this time, the barrel is pushed into the bore, with a live center in the tailstock. The action and barrel, are then spined to make sure everything is lined up perfectly, and then we let it sit overnight.
The next morning I back off the tail stock, I spin the action again, and of course, due to 24" of barrel sticking out there, with no support, I am going to get some deflection, normally about .010" which I think is better than 3/8" to 1/2"
Anyway folks that is the perfect way ( in my opinion ) to remove and install barrels on pinned actions.
I will probably loose 50% of my bussiness now you all folks know how to do it. !!!!!!!!!.
I have been bombarded by phone calls about this subject, so I hope that this information will slow down the calls. If any of you now how to post this info. in Rimfire Central, please do it for me, I don't know how to do it.
I hope this helped, in the next couple of days, I will try to give my opinion on tapering barrels after they are finished.
Evelio.

See? Nothing to it.

You are correct, now that you know how to do it, nothing to it !!!!!!!
Evelio.

Lets see - all I need is a lathe and a few years experience... No sweat! Would duct tape or WD-40 make it better?

Hey Bob,
Did it make sence to you. ???

Evelio Mc Donald wrote:Hey Bob,
Did it make sence to you. ???

Yes, it did. Essentially, Anschutz did not intend for those barrels to come loose easily, so removing them takes quite a bit of force, and then getting one back in requires a like amount of force, but applied with finesse: You have to get the thing in straight, too.

For disassembly you created a tool similar to a bore guide, but made from steel bar, that is used with a hydraulic press to force the barrel out of the receiver. Then, installing the new barrel requires that you gently apply 5 tons of pressure... In a straight line. Your solution for checking straight assembly is to spin the receiver/barrel assembly on a lathe and check wobble at the muzzle.

Conceptually it's a simple process but it requires tools and skills very few of us possess.