I wanted to raise the comb height on my norinco J-Dub and get rid of the Bearcreek sock. I'm not much of a craftsman, but it turned out about how I envisioned it. I built the basic shape out of some Aspen hobby wood, and then filled in the rest with Bondo. I shaped everything with a belt sander and a palm sander, then painted and clear-coated with Dupla-Color auto spray paint.






I went to alot more trouble than the guy with the CZ scout. I wish I had seen his post before I started my build.

That looks alright. Mine has one of those same sleeves on it, which I just learned are illegal add-ons. So what to do?

Well, I am also in the middle of building up a CZ stock to raise the comb. Since I won't let paint get anywhere near my rifles, I had to come up with a more complicated method. Why do we do this to ourselves, I ask?

I will be gluing on another piece of wood and sanding it down to shape it from there. Not planning to use any Bondo on mine, but we will see how well it works out.

After it's all done, I may have to stain it to hide the joint where the new piece attaches, but I want the wood grain to show through. I also cut a spacer for the butt of the rifle out of walnut to lengthen the pull a bit while I'm at it. Could be a complicated project, but I still have the composit stock for my CZ in case I screw up the wood one. You guys are having such success with yours, I gotta try it.

I'm just not that talented at woodworking. I have seen posts on RFC where guys will buy "blems" or "runouts" from stockmakers and then cut the butt off and marry it to their existing stock. I guess you could do that with similar woods.
I am more of a function over form guy, but I wouldn't want to screw up a beautiful wood stock.

jbattman-nice work! The fit of a stock (INHO) is more important than the looks, but ifyou can acheive both, all the better!!

JW-that's what the extra stock is for! I was gonna do the same, find a nice chunk of similar beech to attatch, then sand to shape, but unlike you I kinda like the shiney car paint look! Be careful of the 7" below center of bore rule with your LOP extension, those hogback stocks like the trainer's droop prettty low if you follow its existing lines.

Nice job Battman! Usually when I think about doing something like that flags come up, and when a tool gets in my hands, thats when it gets down right dangerous.

The stock looks great. Nothing wrong with bondo and a little paint over it. It just dosen't look like wood but keep in mind it's a tool not a work of art. The most important thing is that it fits your shooting style and dosen't look too ugly.

NewAZShooter wrote:That looks alright. Mine has one of those same sleeves on it, which I just learned are illegal add-ons. So what to do?

Well, I am also in the middle of building up a CZ stock to raise the comb. Since I won't let paint get anywhere near my rifles, I had to come up with a more complicated method. Why do we do this to ourselves, I ask?

I will be gluing on another piece of wood and sanding it down to shape it from there. Not planning to use any Bondo on mine, but we will see how well it works out.

After it's all done, I may have to stain it to hide the joint where the new piece attaches, but I want the wood grain to show through. I also cut a spacer for the butt of the rifle out of walnut to lengthen the pull a bit while I'm at it. Could be a complicated project, but I still have the composit stock for my CZ in case I screw up the wood one. You guys are having such success with yours, I gotta try it.

I used the Bearcreek slipon and it was leagle last year.

Fat NDN wrote, "I used the Bearcreek slipon and it was leagle last year." [/quote]

I use a bearcreek on my SB hunter and a Bianchi International on my HP standard rifle without any hassles at my local range either. But since I am planning to attend some State and regional matches this season, and the rules clearly state:

3.15 Buttplates and Cheekpieces - A butt or buttplate
having a curved rear surface in which the depth of the curve
exceeds 1/2 inch when measured from a straight line drawn
from the top to the bottom of the buttplate is prohibited.
Buttplates must be centered. Adjustable cheekpieces must be
fixed and sealed in place. ...from the NRA website.

I don't want to show up at a match with my slipon cheek peices all adjusted to get my eye perfectly in line with the scope and then have a judge tell me I have to remove it. My solution is to build up this wooden stock to avoid that possibility. I assume glued in place, stained and finished over will constitute "fixed and sealed in place."

But from I have read here about the NRA matches like the nationals, I fully expect some suit at the big matches this year to give me some BS for one reason or another. Just trying to come prepared and minimize that possibility to whatever extent I can.

Interesting rule because it seems intended to keep out the infinitely adjustable stocks but then takes a swipe at slip ons that might legitimately appear on hunter rifles. Does this rule exclude peel and stick pads that are fixed but not sealed?

I have seen slip on recoil pads used at Nationals in both Cowboy and Scoped rifle matches for many years. The 3.15 rules does not prevent their use by us.

If you have any doubts to what I am saying Email Greg Connor and ask him yourself.

lone ringer wrote:I have seen slip on recoil pads used at Nationals in both Cowboy and Scoped rifle matches for many years. The 3.15 rules does not prevent their use by us.

If you have any doubts to what I am saying Email Greg Connor and ask him yourself.

Great! Slip on recoil pads may be used in small bore hunter class? What about in high power?

Make sure you guys are talking about the same things here. Peel-and-stick cheekpads are not the same as replacement, or even slip-on, recoil pads.

Jason wrote:Make sure you guys are talking about the same things here. Peel-and-stick cheekpads are not the same as replacement, or even slip-on, recoil pads.

Understood - Lone Ringer raised a surprising point, though, since conventional wisdom has always held that slip on recoil pads broke the rule. If they are legal it's a huge help to me!

An answer the peel and stick cheek pad question is also important, but I realize that is a separate question.

NewAZShooter wrote:Fat NDN wrote, "I used the Bearcreek slipon and it was leagle last year."

I use a bearcreek on my SB hunter and a Bianchi International on my HP standard rifle without any hassles at my local range either. But since I am planning to attend some State and regional matches this season, and the rules clearly state:

3.15 Buttplates and Cheekpieces - A butt or buttplate
having a curved rear surface in which the depth of the curve
exceeds 1/2 inch when measured from a straight line drawn
from the top to the bottom of the buttplate is prohibited.
Buttplates must be centered. Adjustable cheekpieces must be
fixed and sealed in place. ...from the NRA website.


I don't want to show up at a match with my slipon cheek peices all adjusted to get my eye perfectly in line with the scope and then have a judge tell me I have to remove it. My solution is to build up this wooden stock to avoid that possibility. I assume glued in place, stained and finished over will constitute "fixed and sealed in place."

But from I have read here about the NRA matches like the nationals, I fully expect some suit at the big matches this year to give me some BS for one reason or another. Just trying to come prepared and minimize that possibility to whatever extent I can.[/quote]

It is not permently attached and was okayed 2 years ago and is an amendment in the new book. I have never benn stopped for using it.