Innocent wrote:Do I detect a sales pitch from BB starting?

Innocent

Nope, not good enough of a salesman to think that far ahead. There is a lot to admire in the 541, but then they made the trigger attachment too delicate and used a plastic magazine that still has folks upset, even though they work fine. I really am conflicted about selling it since I like things with character. (Make of that what you will...)

You can tell BB isn't a redneck...he was, he would have used duct tape stead of electrical tape......

Kitty

jneihouse wrote:You can tell BB isn't a redneck...he was, he would have used duct tape stead of electrical tape......

Kitty

Ran out...

No excuse...plenty at the Kitty Cave

Okay troops, Butch Hongisto has agreed to overhaul my 541-T. The current plan is to add a second action screw, cut a match chamber, re-crown and thread the barrel, square the receiver and face the bolt.

I am torn on threading the factory barrel since it will shorten the barrel and stress the action and may be unnecessary. Opinions?

BlauBear wrote:..............I am torn on threading the factory barrel since it will shorten the barrel and stress the action and may be unnecessary. Opinions?

Did you not listen to the Master on this topic... Call Evelio immediately for reprograming

Bob259 wrote:

BlauBear wrote:..............I am torn on threading the factory barrel since it will shorten the barrel and stress the action and may be unnecessary. Opinions?

Did you not listen to the Master on this topic... Call Evelio immediately for reprograming

Evelio was talking about the Anschutz 1712, and on those his word is law. For better or worse, Remington's are a different animal where different rules have been known to apply - that's why I ask what may seem like an obvious question.

Some 'smiths will say that threading is the best way to know the bore is concentric with the receiver and to set head gap exactly right, others say it doesn't matter, still other say it actually stresses or damages the rifle, some say press & pin is the only way and I've heard at least one other prescribe removing the pins.

It comes down to, "What's best in this case?"

"Private don't know, sir."

Bob
Nothing wrong with adding another action screw. As far as threading the action, the barrel will have to be cut at least 1 1/4" , and it will weaken the action somewhat.
Good luck on your new project.
P.S. I wonder why the Anchutz, Rem. ( except the 40-x ) and several other well known brands of 22LR are press and pinned instead of threaded.
Evelio.

Evelio Mc Donald wrote:Bob
Nothing wrong with adding another action screw. As far as threading the action, the barrel will have to be cut at least 1 1/4" , and it will weaken the action somewhat.
Good luck on your new project.
P.S. I wonder why the Anchutz, Rem. ( except the 40-x ) and several other well known brands of 22LR are press and pinned instead of threaded.
Evelio.

Thanks Evelio!

As noted, there are several opinions on this, each one with a valid point, but I want to improve this old veteran, not weaken it, so I probably will stick with "press & pin". My assumption is that Anschutz, Remington and all use press & pin because it simplifies manufacturing without sacrificing significant accuracy, and the barrel will probably last the life of the rifle, but centerfire rifles are threaded because those barrels probably will need replaced sometime during the life of the rifle.

This rifle is very worn from honest use and really needs help to shoot consistently. The bore feels smooth when I pull the patch, and cleans up like it was hand lapped, but the chamber face is dinged from dry firing and it was cut loose enough to chamber just anything anything.

Bob
My sugestion would be to cut about 3/8" of the barrel shank and re-chamber, cut about 1/8" from the front and re-crown with an 11 1/2 degree match crown. The way I install new barrels ( except 40-X ) is to turn the shank to where it barely start to slide into the action. With the action chucked in the lathe and the bore indicated in to .0005" T.I.R. min. I apply BEARING LOCTITE to the action and the barrel shank, and then push the barrel in with the lathe tailstock, using a brass crown saver in the live center in the tail stock, after it shoulders up against the action, I then turn the lathe by hand to make sure the barrel bore and the action are perfectly lined up. I wait 4 hours, and then drill the pins grooves in the barrel, using the action holes as a guide. All of this is done with the action and the barrel still in the lathe. Then I back off the tail stock, and turn the chuck slowly to make sure there is no run out at the end of the barrel.
Evelio.

So the barrel only loses about .5" an inch? Much better than the other way that would cut about 1.5" form the barrel! Would you give a 1712 similar treatment, or am I straining at gnats here? I like the 1712 out of the box and see no need to replace that barrel, but believe the factory chamber gives up some accuracy to accommodate a wider variety of ammunition.

I agree.