I'm old, retired and cheap!

I've only shot or will shoot three hi-power matches this year: a monthly match, a sectional (Missoula Ironman), and the upcoming Washington State Championship. I shoot one gun in both classes, a 260 Rem 700, and was barely able to scrape together the primers, bullets, and powder to do what little I did do! Not too sure I can afford this game anymore! A pond of IMR 4064 cost $34 at my local shop, and I felt lucky to get it! In your opinion, what is the cheapest hi-power caliber for silhouette? I ain't that competitive, but I like to at least send 'em down range.....

I'm thinking that if I can find a little cheaper round to shoot, I'd rebarrel for it (of course, I'd have to shoot forever to pay for the rebarrel....... unless I could twist the arm of a certain retired good riflesmith!

I shoot the 7mm Br it uses about half the powder you burn in that 260, the recoil is soft its accurate and it wacks the hell out of the Rams... I also shoot the 6mm Br when I want to keep things simple and only shoot one bullet. In the 7mm I load 120, 130's for the first 3 animals and 168 or 175 for Rams...In the 6mm I only shoot one bullet the 107 sierra. Hope that helps you out.

7BR, me too...............

Mel, first rule of HP...."More expensive to feed, but worth it."

You paid way too much for that powder. Buy your components in bulk. Powder in 8 lb. cans, bullets in 500 packs, and primers by the case. Organize a group buy for what you need. Stick with your .260, you already own it.

Bob Mc Alice wrote:Mel, first rule of HP...."More expensive to feed, but worth it."

You paid way too much for that powder. Buy your components in bulk. Powder in 8 lb. cans, bullets in 500 packs, and primers by the case. Organize a group buy for what you need. Stick with your .260, you already own it.

I agree with Bob. Why spend money to change calibers when you already have a great caliber? I usually make one big component buy a year - usually about 2000 bullets, 8-16 lbs of powder and bunch of primers if I need them. We try to get a bunch of shooters together and order as much in bulk as we can and we try to go through the local guys as much as possible.

Dustin

Mel, it looks to me like the only real savings in changing would be in powder, all the other components are similar enough to be a wash. If you figure $30 a pound and compare a 7BR to a 260 your savings per round would be about $0.07 (that’s 40 grains in the 260 to 23 grains in the 7BR which is about what I shoot in mine). If a new barrel job costs $500 that would take you roughly 7000 rounds to break even on just the new barrel, not counting dies and other change over costs. I can't see any caliber change that would be a real savings.
Check with the State rifle and pistol association in the states you shoot in---sometimes they have group buys which can save you money if you are a member---some are a real bargain when you compare the annual membership fee to the discounts you can get on components through group buys and shared haz mat and shipping fees, plus sometimes discounts. Watch for and buy Sierra, Nosler or Hornady seconds---they are good and at a significant discount---you can determine for yourself if they are accurate enough that you feel ok about shooting them in a match. Watch garage sales and estate auctions---some real bargains to be had there.

Yeah, after listening to you all, it doesn't really make much sense, does it? I'll start beating the bush for other shooters and group buys on powder, primers, and bullets.... If nothing else, maybe I could get my still working wife a second job......

OnaginOffagin wrote:.... If nothing else, maybe I could get my still working wife a second job......

LOL good luck with that!!!! (and I'd be very careful telling her, it could really ruin your shooting)

It is a lazy man that can't find his wife a second job!

Onagain talk to me in Pe Ell this weekend.

Mark B.