For those of you who have shot a CZ Silhouette modle, how is the stock, compared to a good fitting stock? I like my 452, but the stock leaves a lot to be desired. Low comb, and a semi straight grip are not as nice as a Pharr. The Silhouette looks to be more what I'd like as far as fit. I am thinkig seriously of putting a Pharr on my CZ, but may get a Silhouette, to hold me over til I want a 1712 in a Pharr.
Thanks for any thoughts
chuck

The CZ silhouette stock is better for offhand shooting that the American for sure. Neither is great but the silhouette version is good. I wouldn't put a Pharr stock on your CZ, as the uninletted stock will cost over $300 and the labor for inletting and pillar bedding will be around that much also. That much money will go a long way toward the 1712, or if you don't have a really good scope go ahead and buy the scope first and it can transfer to the 1712 later.

If you are handy with the bondo and fiberglass, check out what Jason has done with a CZ varmint stock. It's very Pharr-esque.

SteveM

For me the silhouette stock was too short. I modified the factory synthetic stock to increase the lenght of pull, raise the comb and better fit the grip. The synthetic stock material is very easy to work with.

jbolt,

That is a nice stock and looks very functional. Yes adding a $600+ stock to a $400 rifle does not make a lot of sense, but.......

How about some tips on how it was done, anyone who has modified thier stocks. I have not used bondo since my old Bronco, back in 1972, but am willing to learn.

Thanks
chuck

Chuck,
I am a lefty shooting a righty CZ 452 silhouette. I like the stock, I think it feels good for off-hand, but I have never used a Pharr, so I have nothing for comparison. I sanded down the righty cheek piece on mine, then used a bondo like substance to make a lefty cheek piece. See photos under the thread "paint job" for the finished job. I actually used something called a "glazing putty" that I got at a body shop supply store. Mixes like an epoxy, and it dries a lot harder than bondo. I also used silicone shaping tools bought at the auto body store. I made the cheek piece in one large batch. If I had it to do again, I would have done it in 2 or 3 layers. The stuff is fairly easy to work with, sands well, but you can't scratch it with a fingernail so to speak. I think one 12oz thing of glazing putty was like $17, and another 4 or 5 for the shaping tools.

Chuck,
To keep the stock light I used medium density balsa wood to lengthen the stock as well as extend the cheek piece. The balsa was laminated from 1/4" sheets using cynoacrylite glue (superglue) I epoxied the butt extension and used the CA glue to build up the comb. Once sanded to shape the balsa was sealed with polyester resin,filled,sanded and glassed with 3/4 oz cloth. The grip and palm swell were rough in with balsa and then the final buildup and shape done with bondo. FYI polyester resin does not adhere well to the synthetic stock unless well roughed up with 60-80 grit paper. The buttplate is a universal one from brownells.

J~

I used Bondo " Glass" to modify my CZ Silhouette stock. I raised the comb, made a magazine well, and beefed up the forearm. This material is dense and added weight to the gun. It now weighs just undered 8 1/2 pounds with the scope. If you want a lighter stock you can mix a product called "3M Glass Bubles" with either Bondo or Bondo Glass.

awilli,
That looks awesome. How did you form the bondo glass? I used a finishing glaze to make a lefty cheekmold for my 452, and I had a hell of a time shaping it. I ended up just piling it on, and then a TON of sanding to shape it how I want. Yours is incredible, how'd you do it?

Mt Medic,

Like you, I used the pile and sand method on every thing except the inside of the magazine well. I did use a orbital sander to start off with, and that made it a lot easier. For the magazine well I cut a piece of wood in the shape of the inside, wrapped it with tape, and attached it to the gun from the inside through the action screw hole. I then greased it up,piled the Bondo glass around it, and started sanding. I had to put the Bondo on all areas and sand several times to get it like I wanted. I also had to go over everything several times with regular Bondo to fill the voids in the glass.

awilli,
wow, that had to take some serious time. I don't think I would have the patience. I did the exact same thing just for the cheek pad, and that alone took several hours in layering and sanding. Hats off to you man.

Does adding to the stock (primarily the comb and grip), bump the silo stock out of hunter class? At what point is it not a hunter stock?

gcsniper...I refer you to section 3.1(d) of the NRA rule book. http://www.nrahq.org/compete/RuleBooks/ ... r-book.pdf
Basically adding to the comb and grip within the limits of what is stated is fine.

Mary

Thanks. I could only find a condensed version of the rules.

There is a jig that they use at the nationals for SB and HP, that shows when the comb is too high, etc. THe part that catches the most people is the depth of the forend (not over 2.5 inches if my memory serves me correctly), the height of the comb (above the centerline of the bore) and the height of the scope, are probably the 3 most common catches on the rules. Most of what you see will have no problem passing, and more than one match I have seen shoe sole (flip flops) taped, glued to the stock to build up cheek weld for shooters. THose that need long LOP often just add dowel spacers between the stock and the butt plate.

Mary