(Putting this in highpower even though I probably won't actually shoot a highpower match with it)

First, the back story... I have an old commercial large-ring Mauser in .270 Rem made back in 1953 by National Arms. My father-in-law's dad gave it to him and a few years ago he gave it to me. It hasn't seen a hunt in 20+ years, I would guess. As a starting point for getting the old dog back into hunting shape, I used a gift certificate for a free pillar bedding job from Neil Johnson that I won at the Conard Cup to get it pillar bedded. It went from shooting around 1 3/4" groups for 3-shots at 100yds to groups around 3 1/2" post pillar-bedding. These groups are shot off my benchrest rests with <3mph wind and are consistent with both my handloads and factory Winchester Powerpoint ammo. I noticed that the barrel had previously been full-length bedded before I sent it off. When I got it back, the action and a couple inches of barrel were newly bedded and the old disintegrating bedding had thankfully been sanded out to float the rest of the barrel. When lamenting that I couldn't get the old .270 to shoot well in time for the pig hunt I just got back from, my father-in-law commented that when they were trying to get it shooting 30+ years ago it didn't shoot well with the just the action bedded so they full-length bedded the barrel to calm it back down a bit. The action sits well in the stock now, with action screws going from freely turning to >40 inch lbs nearly instantly as expected with a pillar bedded stock. Neither action screw seems to flex or even put undue pressure on the action when tightened without the other screw in.

It's the original factory small diameter hunting barrel from 1953 with an unknown number of rounds and an unknown history of maintenance. Knowing my father-in-law, though, it's safe to assume that it was taken care of pretty well. The chamber, bore, and crown look bright and shiny but I don't really have a way of measuring throat erosion. The lock time feels like years compared to my Rem 700 highpower silhouette rifle. I know that's mostly a design issue, but I'm willing to bet there hasn't been a spring changed in the entire firearm since it left the factory. I cleaned and adjusted the trigger and it's actually pretty nice compared to most any factory triggers out there now.

Now, with all of the background out there, I need some advice on getting it to shoot better. Here are the things that I intend to try. Feel free to give advice on any/all of these and suggest more things.

1) Buy a box of bullets known for accuracy without regard for their capability as hunting bullets. I'm getting tired of shooting these expensive Interbond bullets when trying to make the rifle shoot well. Once I get it shooting well with cheaper match-type bullets, I can go back to these $40+/100 Interbonds. Anyone got some .277 bullets that they want to sell or want to suggest some that are great for the price?

2) Replace any springs or other parts that might need replacing. I saw that Wolff has a rifle spring service pack for a Mauser 98 that might cover this well. Anyone used any of those spring packs before? My first choice was going to be J&P, but when I placed my last order with them and asked about a Mauser striker spring, they said they didn't offer one. Any other spring manufacturers you would suggest? What other parts might need replacing?

3) For bedding, I intend to sanding out the couple inches or so back by the action and fully floating the rest of the barrel. If that doesn't help, I intend to start using some sort of thin material (strips cut from a milk jug or similar) to build an increasing tall pressure pad under the barrel near the front end of the foreend. If this works, I can use some bedding compound to make the pressure permanent. If it doesn't, I'll try fully bedding the barrel. Any advice on these steps or what to do if none of these work?

Any other suggests or comments on these that any of you out there might have? Anyone fought a few rounds with a Mauser trying to get it to shoot well and have experience that you can share? I'm not expecting to miraculously make this a half-MOA gun. I won't carry a scoped rifle hunting that won't shoot a 1" or less group at 100yds, though.

Thanks,

Jason

First thing I would check is to see if any part of the trigger assembly is touching wood. From there, I would try some different loads. Try changing the velocity to see if you can tune the load to the barrel. Not all loads shoot the same in all guns.

I had the same desire with a Swedish Mauser 96, shortened the barrel put it in a synthetic stock, had scope mounts put on it, shot it and then sold it when after all that, it shot better in it's original form, if it was handed down I would have kept it deep in the safe.

I have several 98 style rifles--some have original military barrels and some have custom barrels. Some of the military rifles will never shoot 1 MOA or better, unless you replace the barrel or at least do some work to it. So, if you don’t want to replace the barrel right off, it’s always a good idea to inspect the crown (with magnification) and if you don’t know what you are looking for have a smith look at it. Crowns on old rifles are a major source of accuracy problems. Bore scoping, slugging the barrel and doing a chamber cast will tell you whether the barrel is good. Again, if you are not familiar with the processes, have someone do it that has experience. Do the above steps before you have a new crown cut; it may save you some money.
Once you determine the barrel is bad or good, go from there. If the barrel appears good, measure the twist so you can determine if there are any bullets the twist might not handle and measure the throat depth. I like to give mine a good cleaning with JB’s or Rem-Clean—kinda polish it up. Then load up several different loads at different velocities with depths that you think might work good and see if any shoot well.
Typically the 98 action is not the problem, they are a good action and many display very fine workmanship. It sounds like you have taken care of any bedding issue, so the most likely variable is the barrel.
The 98’s I have with custom barrels (and some of the original military ones) shoot just a well as the Remington’s and Savages I have. But you do have to put up with the slow lock time. Over a bench, they will shoot 1 MOA or better for more than just three shots.