To set your scope back just like it came from the factory, do the following.

The elevation and windage adjustments of a scope are easily centered.
Place a small mirror against the objective end of the scope. That would
be the end farthest from your eye as you look through the scope. Make
certain that the mirror is large enough to cover the entire objective.
It must also be flat against the objective. With the scope's power
selector ring set at the lowest magnification, look through the eyepiece as
you would while aiming at a target. If the scope's windage and
elevation adjustments are off center, you will see two images of the reticle
(cross-hair). To reach the center of the adjustment range, simply turn
the elevation and windage dials until you see only one image of the
reticle.

Go out on a brighy day and have the light coming from behind you, because light has to enter from the eyepiece since you have the objective covered. I take the lens shade off to.

For you guys with bumped 40 power scopes, I don't know how well this will work for you. You need to have the scope set on the lowest setting. In my case I use Leupold 6.5 to 20 power EFR scope. It only takes 2 or 3 minutes or less to have it back centered as it came from the factory.

Hope this helps.

mgann

Melvin,

Thanks for the info. Being the un-informed redneck I am, I used to just "bottom out" the scope and come up 1/2 the MOA adjustment in the scope. Example ... if a Lupie has 38 mins of adjustment, got to the bottom and come up 19 mins.

Actually then I sight that setting in at the turkeys (middle of our tracking) and then turn down to chickens and "zero" the scope...

I have some new scopes comming in, I will give this a try and compare it to my method.

BY the way... Does anyone have any really good methods for shimming to get the scope close once it's "in the middle"

And a second question... is this necessary? What about the old theroy of just having 1+ full revolution on all sides - top, bottom, left, right? Opinions?

Thanks,

Chicken