Jason,

The rim does appear different, but it's only fractional to the difference in driving band location. Again, if one is suspicious of the case rim thickenss, then pull the bullets and fit the empty case into the chamber. If the chamber is clean, it will drop in with no problem, and the bolt will close with relative ease. You will especially see this if you take the time to remove the firing pin and spring.

s.

If I get a chance later today, I will show some photos of my relubing rack for rimfire ammo. I went through a few designs to come up with a very basic and easy to use kit to relube bullets.

I was a must have when I was relubing some varmint hunting ammo. I needed consistency and speed, considering I was reforming cases of ammo.

steve b. wrote:If I get a chance later today, I will show some photos of my relubing rack for rimfire ammo. I went through a few designs to come up with a very basic and easy to use kit to relube bullets.

I was a must have when I was relubing some varmint hunting ammo. I needed consistency and speed, considering I was reforming cases of ammo.

Looking forward to seeing the pictures and your technique for re lubing .22 ammo.

Steve, I want to thank you for the information, it clears up a misconception I have had for some time. Additionally, I have been using Fed 711b for practice ammo recently and have experienced a lead ring shaving around the case mouth, causing stuck cases after the round was fired. I though it had to do with the bullet, and, after looking at your photo and then comparing the 711b to other ammo I have on hand, determined that, as you surmised, the driving band is the culprit. Again, thanks for the info. Dan